3-Day Kayak Expedition Around Smøla – A Journey Through the Realm of the Sea Eagle

Route: Smøla Kayak - 24 km - Villsaugården - 18 km - Eco Camp Norway - 26 km - Smøla Kayak

 

A three-day paddling trip around Smøla offers an efficient and intense nature experience through a unique archipelago of countless skerries and shallow waters. With longer daily stages, you’ll experience a sense of mastery in both open sea stretches and sheltered areas while paddling through the world’s densest population of sea eagles. Here, you are often alone with the horizon and the sound of your oars—a perfect combination of raw nature and active days at sea.

​

The trip can start in several places, but by starting with us, you’ll get expert advice and secure parking. Most paddlers choose to go west (counter-clockwise), but always consider the wind; it often pays to go the opposite direction of our suggestion to ensure as much tailwind as possible. We recommend staying at the following locations:

​

Villsaugården (South Smøla): A nature-focused accommodation featuring architect-designed cabins right on the shoreline, a farm shop, and a sauna (book here). Guests can experience local food culture, wild sheep, and activities like sea eagle safaris. We are currently working on establishing a good campsite in the area. Distance from Smøla Kayak: 24 km.

​

Eco Camp Norway: A hostel offering tenting options on a former football pitch right by the water's edge. You’ll have access to a common room and toilets. Dormitory beds are also available at an affordable price if the weather turns bad. Distance from Villsaugården: 18 km. Distance to Smøla Kayak: 26 km.

 

Practical Information and Navigation

• Season: June to September are the best months, offering the calmest winds and pleasant water temperatures (12–16°C).

• Wind and Weather: Smøla is exposed to wind. Study the weather forecast carefully and plan your direction to maximize tailwind.

• Insects (Midges and Ticks): Midges (knott) can be a nuisance in the evenings during August and September. They aren't a problem while paddling, but if you go ashore when the sun is low and the wind is still, you’re exposed. The outermost islands to the north and west are usually midge-free due to the breeze. At Smøla Kayak, there is an indoor shelter where you can sit comfortably away from them. Dyrøya can be buggy when it's windless. On islands with sheep, ticks (flått) may be present; always check yourself before bed.

• Tides: The tidal range is approximately 2 meters. This is a fun challenge that requires planning, especially on the south side. If you arrive at the wrong time, you may have to wait a few hours. Check tide tables online. The most critical passages are Litlstraumen and the Rangnes currents.

Litlstraumen: A narrow passage under a bridge where the tide creates a strong current. When the sea level is above 130 cm, the current flows east (favorable if coming from Villsaugården). Between 0–130 cm, it flows west (against you if coming from Villsaugården). At levels between 100–150 cm, the current is usually weak enough to pass from either direction.

 

Rangnesstrømmene: Tidal currents that must be timed correctly. Between 0–130 cm, the current flows east (favorable from Villsaugården). Above 130 cm, it flows west. Between 100–150 cm, it is generally passable both ways. There is a smaller current a few hundred meters west of the main one which is easier to navigate.

 

Highlights

• The Western Archipelago: In Old Norse, Smøla was called Smyl, linked to the word "crumb" (smule). Essentially, Smøla means "the island of crumbs," referring to the thousands of islets and reefs surrounding it. The landscape shifts dramatically with the tide, making map and compass navigation a rewarding challenge.

• The South Side: Here, the Tustnastabban mountains tower on the southern horizon. The tidal waters at Jøstølen and Rangnes offer exciting paddling.

• The East Side: The rest area and campsite at Dyrøya features several beaches, grassy spots for tents, benches, and a fire pit.

Caution: Bremnesskaret and Sundkjeften

Be aware of the open sea stretches at Bremnesskaret and Sundkjeften. North of Dyrøya lies Bremnesskaret, where waves can get rough with northerly or easterly winds—stay close to shore. Sundkjeften is passed a few hundred meters after the marina in Steinsøysundet; it is particularly exposed at high tide. If there are significant waves, wait until the water level drops.

 

Accommodation and Supplies

There are great camping spots at Smøla Kayak, Svanøya, Kvistvågen Fritidspark (a 7 km detour), and Dyrøya (5 km north of Nelvika). These are marked on the map. However, for many, the true magic of Smøla is the freedom to find your own uninhabited island for the night.

You can buy groceries at Hopen, Råket, and 7 km north of the ferry quay. For comfortable lodging, check out Hopen Brygge, Lillenes Rorbuer, Villsaugården, Betten Rorbuer, and Eco Camp Norway. Many travelers choose to spend their first or last night in the fishing village of Veiholmen, located a 10 km drive north of Smøla. For a full overview, visit opplevsmola.com.

​