Around Smøla in One Day: The Ultimate Test of Endurance in the Open Sea

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Paddling around the entire island of Smøla in a single day is a feat reserved for the fittest and most experienced kayakers. The classic circuit is approximately 68 kilometers—a distance most people take three to four days to complete. If you choose to tackle the 24-hour challenge, be prepared for long hours in the cockpit, demanding navigation through thousands of islets and reefs that shift with the tide, and the unpredictable weather typical of the Møre coast.

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What makes Smøla unique is its shallow waters and countless skerries that keep larger vessels away. Here, you are often alone with the horizon, the light, and the rhythmic sound of your paddle. Circling Smøla is an experience that combines personal mastery with raw encounters with nature.

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Route Selection for a 1-Day Trip

 

The trip can be started from several locations, but starting with us provides you with expert advice and secure parking. Most paddlers choose to head west (counter-clockwise), but always consider the wind; it may be beneficial to go the opposite direction of our suggestion. Aim to have the wind at your back as much as possible. The tidal currents on the southern side are perhaps the greatest challenge—timing your arrival there is crucial.

Another key to maintaining speed is utilizing the currents to your advantage, which is especially important on the eastern side. This requires local knowledge.

Practical Information and Navigation

• Season: June to September offers the best conditions, with calmer winds and comfortable water temperatures (12–16°C).

• Wind and Weather: Smøla is exposed. Study the weather forecast carefully and plan your direction to maximize tailwinds.

• Biting Insects (Midges and Ticks): Not an issue while you are in the kayak. Midges (knott) can be bothersome during low sun and calm winds in August and September, but if you aren't camping, you are only exposed during land breaks. You can escape them on the outermost islands to the north and west, where there is usually a breeze. At Smøla Kayak, we have an indoor lean-to where you can rest comfortably away from the pests. Dyrøya can be buggy when it's still. On islands with sheep, ticks (flått) may be present; always check yourself at the end of the day.
   

• Tides: The tidal range is about 2 meters. This provides a fun challenge that requires planning, particularly on the southern side. If you arrive at the wrong time, you may have to wait several hours. You can find tide tables online. The most critical passages are Litlstraumen and the Rangnes currents.

Litlstraumen: A narrow passage under a bridge where the tide creates strong currents. When the sea level is above 130 cm, the current flows east; you will have a tail-current if coming from Villsaugården. When the sea level is between 0–130 cm, it flows west, meaning a head-current if coming from Villsaugården. At levels between 100–150 cm, the current is weak enough to pass from either direction.
 

Rangnes Currents: A tidal current that must be timed correctly. When the sea level is between 0–130 cm, the current flows east (favorable from Villsaugården). Above 130 cm, it flows west. Between 100–150 cm, it is passable both ways. There is also a smaller current a few hundred meters west of the main one which is easier to navigate.

 

Highlights

The Archipelago in the West: In Old Norse, Smøla was written as Smyl, which is linked to the word for "crumb" (smule). In short, Smøla means "the island of crumbs." These "crumbs" are the countless skerries and islets surrounding the main island, particularly on the western and southern sides. The landscape shifts with the tide, and as more land emerges at low tide, navigation becomes more demanding—perfect for those looking to practice their map and compass skills.

The South Side: Here, the Tustnastabban mountains dominate the southern horizon. The tidal currents at Jøstølen and Rangnes offer an exciting challenge for paddlers.

The East Side: The rest and camping area on Dyrøya features several beaches and grassy spots for pitching a tent. You will also find benches and a campfire site here.

 

Bremnesskaret and Sundkjeften

 

Be cautious when crossing the open water at Bremnesskaret and Sundkjeften.

• Bremnesskaret: Located north of Dyrøya. Waves can get rough here with northerly or easterly winds. Stay close to the shore.

• Sundkjeften: You will pass this a few hundred meters after the small boat harbor in Steinsøysundet. This area is particularly exposed at high tide. If there are heavy waves, wait until the water level has dropped slightly.

Accommodation, Rest Areas, and Supplies

While every island along the way is a potential rest stop, there are designated sites at Fugløya, Svanøya, and Dyrøya (5 km north of Nelvika). These are marked on the map.

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You can buy supplies at Hopen, Råket, and 7 km north of the ferry quay. For comfortable accommodation before your trip, we recommend Hopen Brygge, Lillenes Rorbuer, Villsaugården, Betten Rorbuer, or Eco Camp Norway. Many paddlers choose to spend their first and last nights at the fishing village of Veiholmen, located a 10 km drive north of Smøla. We recommend Olsens Pensjonat and Gjestehus at Veiholmen. For a full overview of all accommodations, visit opplevsmola.com.