Around Smøla: 2-Day Kayak Trip in a Diverse Seascape

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A two-day paddling trip around Smøla is an intensive but achievable loop for experienced paddlers who are comfortable with long daily stages. It requires thorough planning, particularly regarding weather, tides, and navigation. In return, the trip offers a compact and spectacular experience of Smøla’s unique archipelago. Smøla is also home to what is likely the world’s densest population of sea eagles, giving paddlers a unique opportunity to see Northern Europe’s largest bird of prey up close in its natural element.

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The magic of Smøla lies in its shallow waters and countless skerries that keep larger vessels at bay. Here, you are often alone with the horizon, the light, and the sound of your oars. Paddling around Smøla combines a sense of mastery with raw nature. While the total distance is significant, the sheltered conditions within the archipelago make this an accessible expedition for many when divided into appropriate stages.

 

Route Selection for a 2-Day Trip

The trip can be started from several locations, but by starting with us, you’ll get expert advice and secure parking. Most choose to paddle westward (counter-clockwise), but always check the wind; it may be beneficial to head in the opposite direction of our suggestion to maximize tailwinds. The tidal currents on the south side are perhaps the greatest challenge, making it vital to time your passage correctly.

The closest comfortable accommodation at the halfway point is Betten Rorbuer. The distance to Betten Rorbuer heading counter-clockwise from Smøla Kayak is 37 km, leaving 31 km for the second day. Tent sites for smaller groups are easy to find near Betten Rorbuer, and we are working on marking specific spots in this area.

 

Practical Information and Navigation

• Season: June to September are the best months, offering the calmest winds and pleasant water temperatures (12–16°C).

• Wind and Weather: Smøla is exposed to wind. Read the weather forecast carefully and plan your direction to maximize tailwind.

• Insects (Midges and Ticks): Midges (knott) can be a nuisance on calm evenings in August and September. They aren't a problem while paddling, but if you go ashore when the sun is low and the wind is still, you are exposed. The outermost islands to the north and west are usually midge-free. Smøla Kayak provides an indoor shelter to escape them. Dyrøya can be buggy when windless. On islands with sheep, ticks (flått) may be present; always check yourself before bed.

• Tides: The tidal range is approximately 2 meters. This is a fun challenge that requires planning, especially on the south side. If you arrive at the wrong time, you may have to wait a few hours. The most critical passages are Litlstraumen and the Rangnes currents.

Litlstraumen: A narrow passage under a bridge where the tide creates a strong current. When the sea level is above 130 cm, the current flows east (favorable if coming from the south). Between 0–130 cm, it flows west. At levels between 100–150 cm, the current is usually weak enough to pass regardless of direction.

Rangnesstrømmene: Tidal currents that must be timed correctly. Between 0–130 cm, the current flows east. Above 130 cm, it flows west. Between 100–150 cm, it is generally passable both ways. A smaller current a few hundred meters west of the main one is easier to navigate.

 

Highlights

• The Western Archipelago: In Old Norse, Smøla was called Smyl, meaning "crumb." Smøla is essentially "the island of crumbs," referring to the thousands of islets surrounding it. The landscape shifts with the tide, making navigation a rewarding challenge for map and compass users.

• The South Side: The Tustnastabban mountains dominate the southern skyline. The tidal waters at Jøstølen and Rangnes offer an exciting experience.

• The East Side: The Dyrøya rest area and campsite features beaches, grass for tents, and a fire pit.

Caution: Bremnesskaret and Sundkjeften

Be aware of the open sea stretches at Bremnesskaret and Sundkjeften. North of Dyrøya is Bremnesskaret, where waves can be rough with northerly or easterly winds—stay close to shore. Sundkjeften is passed shortly after the marina in Steinsøysundet; it is exposed at high tide. If waves are high, wait for the tide to drop.

 

Accommodation and Supplies

Great camping spots include Smøla Kayak, Svanøya, Kvistvågen Fritidspark (7 km detour), and Dyrøya. For many, the highlight is finding a private, uninhabited island for the night.

Groceries are available at Hopen, Råket, and north of the ferry quay. Comfortable lodging can be found at Hopen Brygge, Lillenes Rorbuer, Villsaugården, Betten Rorbuer, and Eco Camp Norway. Many spend their first or last night in the fishing village of Veiholmen (10 km north of Smøla), where we recommend Olsens Pensjonat & Gjestehus. See opplevsmola.com for a full overview.